The Art of Inner Peace & Learning to Surf

By: Roman Smishkewych – Photo credit: pexels.com

The salty sea lapped over the board as we looked out to the open ocean. The telltale cadence of the waves returned. Fernando yelled “Here comes another series!” we placed ourselves deliberately into the path of the 8 foot waves, we braced for the big one and try to tame the ride.

It was my first time out and trial by fire seemed like a great way to get “wet behind the ears” and learn to surf. I had the beginner’s surfboard that they give the newbies. “All right”, I said, launching myself into the waves.

Just by inference you learn a lot. so you know when to go under or over a wave. Avoiding others. and placement. The most difficult aspect of surfing is actually launching yourself onto your feet on the board. This requires good upper body strength an quick reflexes. Start with at least your knees on the board. Once, twice… a few more times and I finally was able stand. How great it was.

But between these sets, there were times of solitude waiting for the waves, contemplating the next wave, not your daily schedule. Staring out to the sea seeing nature taking it’s course. The salty sea lapped over the board as we looked out to the open ocean. The telltale cadence of the waves returned. Fernando yelled “Here comes another series!” we placed ourselves deliberately into the path of the 8 foot waves, we braced for the big one and try to tame the ride.

After an afternoon riding wave and having been adequately tired out. We started the fire for supper. Roasting peppers and kebabs on the fire with some frosty beers we drank while the waves crashed on shore not 20 yards away.

Well into the night we wiled away our time, rum and cokes in hand. Music played and we danced into the night.

Going to sleep that night, nothing that was better than knowing that the next day was going to be the same thing all over again.

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